RobertE
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![[*]](./images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif) posted on 3-8-10 at 12:34 PM |
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Breaking in a new engine
Hey guys, I'm hoping to break in the rv8 soon and I'm wondering if anyone had an recommendations on how to do this?
I've heard a few things but I really don't want to chance it on here-say. So if anyone has any experience with this post up.
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mrbill56
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| posted on 3-8-10 at 05:46 PM |
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Well, I never had to break in a newly-built engine, but I will share the things I DO know:
Bring the oil pressure up before you first fire it. Cranking for 20 or 30 seconds with all the plugs removed should work.
New Cam: 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes
That's all from me... :/
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2000GLXStick
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| posted on 3-8-10 at 05:52 PM |
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I guess this falls into the "I've heard" category, but my recommendation is that you need to:
let the engine fully warm up at low rpm (drive like a low-rider for 15 minutes),
make about six hard pulls (maybe in 2nd or 3rd gear) from idle to about 500 rpm shy of redline to seat the rings,
then keep the rpm's low (maybe not more than 4000) for the first 500 miles.
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Ol Grey Fox
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| posted on 3-8-10 at 07:09 PM |
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Instead of cranking it with the plugs out (metal on metal with no lubrication is bad) drive the oil pump for 30 seconds or so before turning it over.
On 8v water-cooleds you can use an old distributor shaft and an electric drill to do the job. When my brother puts together a new SBC he uses a
modified distributor body (something about oil passage spacing) with the electric drill.
Not sure how your car drives the oil pump, but I suggest finding out and doing what is needed to get the oil flowing and then turn it by hand a few
times with the plugs out. At least 4 rotations of the crank to make sure every part of the bearings have passed an oil galley at some point in the
process, and check your oil pressure while you do it. 8 rotations is better. Then you should be ready to start it for the first time, again keeping a
close eye on the oil pressure.
[Edited on 3-9-2010 by Ol Grey Fox]
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EuroGt
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| posted on 3-9-10 at 07:01 PM |
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Go get an Engine Break in Lubrication kit. It will pressurize and drive the oil into the engine w/o turning anything oil-less. And use high zinc and
phosphorus oil the first time. Cam2 & Redline make special break in additives.
Red-Line break In Additive
.:10yrs in  's:.
1966 Beetle<-*sold*
1973 Super Beetle <*sold*
1986 Jetta GL <-totaled&sold
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2000GLXStick
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| posted on 3-9-10 at 07:12 PM |
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I thought that a proper assembly with good quality assembly lube was all that is required to fire the engine right up.
If you use the starter motor to crank the engine without plugs (relieves pressure) or fuel so you don't wash down the cylinder walls (pull the pump
fuse), it would seems that the lubrication system will have all the chance it needs to lube things up.
???
2000 B5 Passat GLX 5-spd (MMB5GLX5M) TT Big Brake conversion, Zimmerman cross-drilled F&R, Mintex Redbox pads, BBS VZ wheels, Bilstein Sport
dampers, H&R Sport Springs, STLB5 custom Alpine Sub, Tint, Audi Jackpads, NB sunglass holder, Funk button, Euroswitch, Jacket hanger, W8 bellypan,
Panasonic CD changer, OEM In-dash CD, Silverstars
199? Toyota MR2 - full Turbo conversion, OEM LSD, Tokico dampers, Eibach springs, TRD sways, High&Tight links, Strut brace, Short Shifter, Turbo
brakes, Turbo wheels, Speedsource shift bushings, Spec clutch and flywheel, Berk catback, Omori boost guage, Alpine MP3, custom subs, tint
1970 Beetle, 58,254 miles 4th owner, found a good retirement home
1964 Beetle, freshly built 1200, 12volt, tall 3rd gear, Gauge package, dual-circuit brakes, pimpin' solid axle dust boots.
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vwtech1717
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| posted on 3-9-10 at 07:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by 2000GLXStick
I thought that a proper assembly with good quality assembly lube was all that is required to fire the engine right up.
If you use the starter motor to crank the engine without plugs (relieves pressure) or fuel so you don't wash down the cylinder walls (pull the pump
fuse), it would seems that the lubrication system will have all the chance it needs to lube things up.
??? |
you are correct
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EuroGt
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| posted on 3-9-10 at 08:25 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by 2000GLXStick
I thought that a proper assembly with good quality assembly lube was all that is required to fire the engine right up.
If you use the starter motor to crank the engine without plugs (relieves pressure) or fuel so you don't wash down the cylinder walls (pull the pump
fuse), it would seems that the lubrication system will have all the chance it needs to lube things up.
??? |
That's about what I did on my 16v.
.:10yrs in 's:.
1966 Beetle<-*sold*
1973 Super Beetle <*sold*
1986 Jetta GL <-totaled&sold
1997 Jetta GT <-totaled
1989 Jetta GLi 2.0 16v
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87veedubcabby
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| posted on 3-9-10 at 09:09 PM |
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When I built the motor for my Ranger (306) all I did was prime the oil pump and crank it up. It did have assembly lube all over everything inside.
Some cams (suchs as vw cams) dont require break in periods.
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Fox-N-It
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| posted on 3-10-10 at 09:56 AM |
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I usually break motors in on Rotella. Heat cycle it at idle then change the oil. Then drive it with varying load for 500miles and change the oil
again. You can then switch to a synthetic if you wish.
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RobertE
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| posted on 3-10-10 at 03:11 PM |
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Thanks for the advice everyone! I'm hoping a good 1 1/2 weeks of solid work should have this thing running. I've always heard that after the initial
warm up/oil change, you have to run the car hard for a few pulls to get the rings to seat.. But logical thinking would have me believe that at normal
operating temperatures the rings should naturally expand and seat. Can anyone elaborate a little bit more? I've looked up a few articles but its hard
to know what to trust.
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EuroGt
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| posted on 3-10-10 at 04:57 PM |
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If it oil smokes after initial running and warm up, Put it in first and pull it all the way to red-line then engine break it back down.. Do this about
6 times and they should seat themselves... I've never had this happen personally.
.:10yrs in 's:.
1966 Beetle<-*sold*
1973 Super Beetle <*sold*
1986 Jetta GL <-totaled&sold
1997 Jetta GT <-totaled
1989 Jetta GLi 2.0 16v
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SILVERWOLF
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| posted on 3-10-10 at 05:56 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by EuroGt
If it oil smokes after initial running and warm up, Put it in first and pull it all the way to red-line then engine break it back down.. Do this about
6 times and they should seat themselves... I've never had this happen personally. |
ive heard this is the only way to break in sealed-power rings b/c of the chromoly top ring (may or may not be required w/ stock rings) but i heard got
about 4k then engine break to idle then repeat raising the revs about 500 rpm per cycle until you reach redline.
04 GLI
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